Meet the Yarn: Nebula

Hi! Me again.  This time I'm jumping on here to talk about Nebula.  I love talking about yarn in terms of fiber, twist & ply, and what type of project is suitable in each yarn.  That is how I look at every yarn that passes through my studio and fingers.  There is the visual aspect, which is what makes you reach out to grab, touch, feel, consume, a yarn.  The visual is a result of the intrinsic loveliness of the fibers, and sometimes it is the result of the color, sometimes it is the result of the twist and ply, and sometimes, it is the result of some other specialness.

Let us talk specialness of fiber. The specialness in this case is stellina, a flat, shiny, metallic looking nylon filament fiber. Stellina is clear or nearly clear, and very flat.  As it twists and turns, the light shines off it, adding a subtle sparkle. Think paper flat and thinner than you can imagine, but soft.  This filament adds a visual element to the yarn, while also adding some of the properties of nylon.  Nebula is 84% super wash merino, 3-ply.  Each ply appears to have a filament of stellina spun in, but the filament is cut into long staple lengths to work with the merino.  Stellina brings specialness.

Nylon (polyamide) has properties that can add to the overall yarn:  

  • exceptional strength, 
  • elastic, 
  • abrasion resistant, 
  • lustrous, 
  • resistant to damage from oils and chemicals, 
  • resilient, 
  • low moisture absorbency.  

Before we get off the specialness aspect of this yarn, let’s take a look at what Nebulas are.  In one description I found they are called the nursery of the Universe.  A nebula is a giant cloud of dust and gas. Giant, as in light years across, nebulae are fuzzy in appearance—like a fluffy bit of wool in the sky, surrounded by sparkly sky things (planets and stars).  

Anzula's Nebula is made of super wash merino and stellina and is colorful and a bit shiny.  But shiny in a subtle and elegant way. Get an idea of all the yarn loveliness by looking at a universe of colors!  

Nylon is so perfect for a sock yarn.  I am not a sock knitter, so I have to find other ways to enjoy sock yarns.  Shawls, tops, scarves, and wraps are all perfect projects for sock yarn—especially sock yarn with a sparkle!  So think outside your sock box and explore what else you can do with sock yarn.  Go to Ravelry and see the nearly 1100 projects done in Nebula if you need ideas!

I have done my usual observational swatch.  I used US size 3(3.25mm) Addi lace needles.  You could knit it on a smaller needle, but I don’t want this to be like a sock.  I think you could go up to a US size 6(4mm) or 7(4.5mm) needle for lace.  Always check your gauge.  I am a loose knitter, so you may need to go up a size or two to get the same result.

I currently have two projects I’m doing samples of in this yarn.  One is Ashland, which can be knit as either a small collar or a larger shawlette.  I love to knit this pattern, but these samples were knit by a knitter with a slightly firmer touch on the collar, and looser with more stitches it is a little lighter, in the larger piece.  I love the colors together [Hyacinth and Avocado], and I am not sure I will ever wear them except layered that way.  Finding the right buttons could be a challenge! 

The other project is in process and I don’t have photos of the sample yet.  It is a lace sleeveless top called Silver Valley.  I do have swatches, at two different gauges.  Both fabrics are lovely, but I wanted a particular fabric.  This stitch pattern is a 12-stich pattern using decreases and eyelets called Razor stitch.  The pattern also uses a 6-stitch Razor for the yoke.  I think it showcases the yarn perfectly.  This color is sweet, but i chose a bolder color, Riot, for the sample.  Too much sweet doesn’t appeal to me.

Nebula in Riot and Avocado

Have you seen My Swatch Challenge? You can join any time, but there is still time to get in at the beginning.  Each month I post a blog on my website to coincide with this post, that gives you instructions for a stitch pattern that I’ve used to do my swatch. These are related to patterns in my pattern collection.  The Swatch Challenge post discusses Belon in Milky Way (swatch drawing on August 15), and contains the stitch pattern for the Oyster Shell .  The next Swatch Challenge post is for Latin Quarter in Breeze (swatch drawing on September 15), and has the stitch pattern Tilting Ladder.  Next up is be the post for Silver Valley in Nebula (swatch drawing on October 15), with the stitch pattern the 12-stitch Razor.  All these posts have a link to Action Charts.

Meet the Yarn: Breeze

I popped onto the Anzula blog in late May without a proper introduction.  It actually didn’t occur to me until after I noticed how monochromatic the post was.  I tend to choose color that is either neutral or colorful and that was decidedly neutral.  So a bit about me, and a photo which shows me as my neutral and colorful self. 

My favorite thing about knitwear design (which includes crochet, although I don’t do that) is that I get to design the textile and the shape.  I have been doing fashion design as long as I can remember.  My passion shifted to knitwear in the 90's.  I have never been bitten by the spinning bug, and I am really only interested in yarn construction because of the impact it has on my designs.  Beginning in 2000, I began teaching design, merchandising, textiles, and product development classes at FIDM in San Francisco.  I have never let go of my interests in basic garment construction and pattern making, I have added a fascination with hand knitting and yarn.  Today those interests have me teaching others what I know, while I pursue an even deeper understanding of the inputs into knitwear design.  Look for classes on my website.  I sell my designs on Ravelry, Jill Wolcott Knits, LoveKnitting, and Craftsy. You might also see me on Instagram, where I have been having fun with the Pantone Color of the Day.

Breeze

65% Silk, 35% Linen
+/- 750 yd / 685 m
Lace Weight

Do you ever pick up a yarn and get truly surprised by it? I was so when I started to swatch in Breeze. When I am testing a yarn I knit up an introductory swatch in four stitch patterns to get a feel for what it does—or doesn’t—like to do. I’ve been doing this a while, and I love to swatch, so I am rarely very surprised by what happens on my needles, or even afterwards when I am blocking.  I might change my mind about the needle size, and occasionally the stitch pattern, but I am rarely surprised.

 

I sat down one evening to do my introductory swatch.  Good for me on US size 3(3.25mm) needles—I am a loose knitter.  Lots of rows in garter. Then I embarked on Stockinette.  I like texture and I am not a real fan of Stockinette. I’ve already chosen Breeze for a pattern that features lace and cables (mixed) in an otherwise Stockinette tank.  In another piece I’m throwing some rib into the mix.  But Breeze in Stockinette just took my breath away. 

What Makes Breeze?

Breeze is a pretty simple two-ply yarn.  It is a blend of silk (65%) and linen (35%).  Silk is the only filament fiber that is a non-manufactured fiber.  Produced by a silkworm, the fiber is protein based.  Linen is a long-staple cellulose fiber.  Breeze looks matte, and a little fuzzy, in the ball.  When handling a single length of yarn the subtle luster becomes evident, and you can feel the interest in the fibers.  In Breeze the silk seems to be staple lengths rather than a filament. The fiber blending creates a simple yarn that drapes beautifully, and is quite flat (not bouncy).  

What to Look For in Breeze

I went on to work seed stitch and 1x1 rib before embarking on my lace and cable pattern, first on US size 3(3.25mm), then on US size 5(3.75mm). In all stitches I got lovely drapey fabric. Although it can be pulled back into shape, this is yarn that is going to stretch. Work it to be very flat, almost like a woven fabric. It is going to stretch, and when doing so it will become narrower. This was proved in my swatches, after wet blocking and steam blocking, grow differently in each stitch pattern. The ribs I did, 1x1 and 2x2 looked great, but aren’t elastic. Seed stitch was quite pretty, but when I tried moss as a trim, it became meh and almost nonexistent.

A quick perusal of Ravelry shows 533 projects in Breeze.  Most have happy smiles! There are a few mis-matches of gauge or design, but mostly knitters and crocheters seems to appreciate the nature of this yarn and choose projects that would make them happy working it, and wearing it.  There are fabulous lace shawls, and some garments. Take the time to check your gauge.  Block it to get the real sense of what this yarn will do, then proceed to your own happy ending.

 

And just because, here’s a happy cat, enjoying a nice Breeze shawl!

Do you have a favorite thing you've made with Breeze or are you dreaming of using Breeze in a future project? Tell us about it in the comments below!

You can find more from Jill using these links:

Meet the Yarn: Milky Way
Jill's Ravelry page
www.JillWolcottKnits.com
Jill's Instagram 

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Meet the Yarn: Milky Way

80% Milk Protein, 20% Superwash Merino
+/- 500 yd / 457 m
8.5-9 sts / in US #1

Milky Way presents vast possibilities and could easily fulfill many of your yarn needs.  Milk protein fiber seems new and cool, so I was surprised to find that it was developed in the early 1930s.  Milk protein fiber was extensively used through the 1930s and 1940s, but nearly disappeared in the late 1940s.  It continued to be used, but was not part of the consumer conciousness again until the 1990s.

Milk protein is a natural product, and the process for creating fiber from the casein protein derived from milk is a wet spinning and drying process.  It is not listed as a manufactured fiber on government and international standards lists.  I thought it might be a rayon, but casein is a protein, not a cellulose fiber so it doesn't qualify. I learned quite a bit reading a patent application for a new process of producing milk protein fiber, and from historical information. You can get a nice idea of the state of milk protein fiber here

If you look at this second post on the Fiber of My Being blog you will get the information that I think as a knitter, you really want!  You can see from the photos of the fiber, that it has a distinct luster, and that is what gives Milky Way its soft sheen.  It also makes it a little slippery which gives it good drape and allows the stitches to open up. The stickiness she refers to is both a positive and a negative.

I originally selected Milky Way for an update of Belon, a garter lace shawl.  A revision of the current pattern, with the sample done in Milky Way, is due out in the fall of 2017.  I have personally knit Belon in three different yarn types:  1) pure silk, 2) a cotton-merino-possum blend, and 3) a rayon.  The silk and rayon were quite slippery and had lovely drape.  The silk was light-as-a-feather, while the rayon was a similar weight to Milky Way, so had more substance.  The cotton-merino-possum made a slightly more casual fabric, but it still had great drape. 

So Milky Way had to meet some high expectations. What I found was a perfect blending of the characteristics of the three other yarns I had used.  I ended up with a lovely shawl (knit by someone else!) with great drape that showed off the stitch pattern to perfection.

Belon Blocked

Eventually I got curious about what else you could do with this yarn.  Milky Way has a lot of projects on Ravelry (324!) with a lot of smiley faces, proving its vast possibilities. I was struck by the variety so I started doing an exploration swatch.  I’m a loose knitter, and started with a US size 3(3.25mm) needles.  I started with seed, then did some garter.  

Milky Way in Seed Stitch, blocked.

Milky Way in Garter Stitch, blocked.

I got to thinking this would be a great yarn for a camisole in my archives, so I cast on to try the Lifted YO pattern (hated it) and tried it with a seed background instead of stockinette.  I liked it, but it was not worth the effort of working seed stitch.  I moved on to the Berry Stitch I loved from some projects I did for Love of Knitting, pairing it with a 3x3 rib. I wet blocked the swatches, which made everything better, and mostly smoothed out some sticky stitches.

Milky Way in Lifted YO stitch, blocked.

Milky Way in Berry Stitch, blocked.

Milky Way in 3x3 Rib, blocked.

After a couple of days of looking at the patterns on Ravelry I decided to try something else.  I wasn’t convinced I wanted to work in stockinette because the stickiness of Milky Way makes some stitches uneven and I would need to go down to a US size 2(2.75mm) or smaller to get denser fabric.  I’ve got more than a skein of Milky Way on my shelf and I started considering what I would most enjoy making.  I started swatching Pinnacle Chevron, on US size 2(2.75mm).  I got a really interesting fabric as the knits and purls curled around each other. 

But we know that what we see in its raw form isn’t always what we end up with, don’t we?  So off to wet block and see what I would end up with.  My experience is that this rib flattens out quite a bit.

To round up my thoughts on the vast possibilities of Milky Way:  

  • This is a lovely soft, smooth, yet not slippery yarn, with great luster, and significant drape.  
  • It is perfect for a shawl, but there vast possibilities beyond shawls. 
  • Try different stitch patterns to make it sing for you—peruse those projects on Ravelry.  
  • There are some Milky Way advantages: 
    • blended with 20% merino, it has the softness and springiness of merino although it is a flat-ish yarn; 
    • the properties of milk protein are moisture absorption and conduction (i.e., comfort and quick drying), luster, similar feel to merino, and it takes dye well.  
  • Blocks well both wet and steam. Find instructions for wet blocking here and steam blocking here.
  • Stickiness of the milk protein fiber can cause stitches to be uneven* and made it a little maddening when I split a stitch.  *There is an argument that I shouldn’t read subtitles and knit!
  • All fibers made with wet spinning are weak when wet, so wash away, but take care when taking it out of a bath.

I am including charts for the stitch patterns I used.  Note that I make Action Charts, which mean that a knit is always a knit, and a purl is always a purl—or what you see is what you do.  

Stitch patterns: 

What I used:
Milky Way in Seaside
Size 3(3.25mm) Addi lace circular needles
Brittany size 2(2.75mm) dpns (as straight needles)
Clover ring markers.

The current version of Belon is available on Ravelry or on JillWolcottKnits.com where you can also sign up for my newsletter.  I’ve written about blocking in several blog posts.