Meet the Yarn: Croquet

Jill Wolcott
passion.fashion.knits

Croquet

50% Superwash Merino, 50% Tussah Silk
+/- 230 yd / 210 m
4.75-5.75 sts / in US #4-7

I was surprised to find only 74 Croquet projects on Ravelry, although happy faces abound, as do beautiful finished products.  Croquet retails for about $33 a skein, and most people have one to three skeins (230 yds to 790 yds). The 120 Croquet stashes on Ravelry are mostly not available for sale or swap, so I think this yarn could use a little more explanation and comment to encourage yarnies to dip in and use it. 

Croquet in Saffron, Charcoal, and Au Natural.

The yarn is a DK weight blend of tussah silk and super wash merino (50% each). The WPI is 16. This is a little heavier at 230 yards than the other Sport and DKs in Anzula’s line-up.  I know when I made my Lisse Hat I had to adjust the number of stitches to make it work.  Some of the project comments were that the fabric was heavier or the shawl ended up being larger than expected.  This is just one of the problems with how we categorize yarn, and has nothing to do with the marvelousness of Croquet itself.  I think the silk makes this less squishy than some of the yarns a knitter might be comparing it to.

Here are my gauge numbers in Reverse Stockinette and Stockinette and in a cable pattern, and a lace pattern.  

Some yarns are clearly better in a fabric stitch, and others in a lace.  I think what sets Croquet apart is that is it equally lovely in both.  If you have a smaller quantity, work it up in a hat or cowl; if you have more, a lace shawl or a sleeveless top will be ideal.  If you have even more yarn, it will make a lovely garment.  I will be redoing the pattern for my lovely Florence cardigan in Croquet.    

This fabric is going to slightly heavier, and the silk makes it a little slippery, so it will drape beautifully.  Remember to calculate for that!  Whenever the silk content is high, swatching and blocking are essential.  I recommend that the swatches be hung to get a true sense of what is going to happen with the fabric in your final piece.  Do not think that the result you achieved with another yarn is going to be achieved identically in Croquet.  I’m very pleased with the stitch definition, the ability to work cables, and the openness achieved in the garter lace I’ve worked up in Croquet.  The light plays wonderfully with the silk and the signature tonal dying from Anzula Luxury Fibers.

I made the Lisse Hat from Croquet about 18 months ago.  I loved knitting with the yarn—so much so that I was willing to rip out the top of the hat and shorten it to a better length.  To me that is always a good sign.  It means I like working with the yarn, I am happy with the results, and I get to see what happens when the yarn gets reknit.  It is an informative process for me.  

The hat used smaller needles, US 3(3.25mm).  I used 88 sts instead of 96 sts (to fit my stitch pattern repeat).  You can download the information pdf for the original hat so you can plan. And you can find the Lisse pattern on Ravelry here. I don’t have unblocked gauge numbers for this, but based on the numbers above, expect a little contracting for the stitch gauge and slight expansion for the round gauge.

Do your homework in a swatch so that you will love your result!  Look at my blog post for information on customizing this hat pattern to work with Croquet. There is plenty of yarn in a single skein to swatch and to make the hat!

Note on Tussah silk.  This term generally describes non-cultivated silk. It isn’t a particular type of silk or silkworm, just that it is wild, not cultivated.  There is surprisingly little good information on silk online, so I can’t give you good links to more information.

Keep up on all things Jill Wolcott:
Contact: jill@jillwolcottknits.com
Blog:  http://www.jillwolcottknits.com/category/blog/
Twitter: @jillwolcottknit
Instagram: @jillwolcottknits
Pinterest: Jill Wolcott Knits
www.JillWolcottKnits.com

Meet the Yarn: Haiku

Jill Wolcott
passion.fashion.knits

Casting on with Haiku

I picked up Haiku with a specific project in mind.  That isn’t usually the case, but the yarn spoke to me when I first saw it.  I reverse my usual process and I went right into a large swatch using the stitch patterns I needed for that pattern.  

Medallion swatch unblocked and blocked

Haiku fit my project perfectly.  After swatching and adjusting my numbers, and making a few changes, I sent my pattern off to a knitter to do the knitting.  Then I made my usual exploration swatch.  These swatches tell me so much about each yarn and usually help me decide what to do in terms of stitch pattern and project.  I don’t necessarily use the four stitches, but they give me an idea of stitch definition, how the yarn and color interact in them, and what type of background seems to make the yarn sing.

I have wet and steam blocked my swatches and have these observations.  Overall, there was little gauge change in my swatches—just a tidying up of stitches and rows.  I used Addi Lace cable needles, US size 3(3.25mm).  I am generally a loose knitter, so you may need to go up a size or two to achieve the same gauge.  

Details of Medallion

Central medallion at back of neck

It goes without saying that this fingering weight, 3-ply yarn, was a pleasure to work with.  The bamboo and merino combine to give it a lovely sheen, making this a yarn entirely appropriate for shawls, shrugs, cowls, scarves, and garments!  With 10% nylon, I think this would make lovely, transitional socks.  

I did some research on bamboo fiber.  I have seen a lot of change in this fiber since first seeing it in yarn in the early part of the 2000s.  Bamboo is noted for its smooth, soft, and luxurious feel, derived from its round surface.  Bamboo fiber breaths well and has micro gaps and holes which lead to excellent moisture absorption and ventilation.  It is comfortable in both warm and cold weather.  Bamboo has a naturally antibacterial, anti-fungal, anti-static bio-agent called “bamboo kun”.  This bio-agent is retained in the process of becoming a fiber and has been found to remain after a high number of washes.  The process of creating bamboo fiber is done most often by a chemical process using caustic soda or lye, followed by a bleaching and carbon disulfide process.  This is not necessarily environmentally friendly.  Organic bamboo is processed mechanically, at a higher cost.

Center back bottom lace 

This process is something to consider when choosing manufactured fibers, but should also be weighed by the positive attributes it brings.  Bamboo has plenty of attributes:  renewable fiber source with short growing cycle (4 years), plus antimicrobial and comfort.  Although the process of making manufactured fibers has some drawbacks, having good inputs counts in its favor.

Back and buttoned cuff

My Haiku Medallion shrug was the first piece in the TNNA Fashion show at the Summer 2017 show.  I have no photos, and didn’t see it because I didn’t get to TNNA in time.  I did snag the sample to wear in a class I was teaching the following day.  Wearing the sample was when I learned the most about this yarn!  It was so comfortable I forgot I was wearing it.  It was warm, but not too.  It looked great too!

Looking at photos I’ve now taken of my shrug, you can see how nicely it works in lace, which is pleasantly offset by the plainness of the stockinette.  I like to liven this piece up with a lot of buttons too.  Medallion Haiku will be released in December or January. Want to know when it is getting published?  Sign up for my bi-monthly newsletter here.   You can get swatch instructions for the small medallion pattern on Jill’s blog.

Keep up on all things Jill Wolcott:
Contact: jill@jillwolcottknits.com
Blog:  http://www.jillwolcottknits.com/category/blog/
Twitter: @jillwolcottknit
Instagram: @jillwolcottknits
Pinterest: Jill Wolcott Knits
www.JillWolcottKnits.com

Haiku can be found in these shops:
Jessica Knits in Scottsdale, AZ
Purls of Wisdom in Pheonixville, PA
Row One Yarn in Sherman Oaks, CA
Salty Sheep in Swansboro, NC
StevenBe in Minneapolis, MN
Yarning for You in San Marcos, CA
Yarns to Go in Alpina, MI
And many more!

You can also special order Haiku from any shop that carries Anzula yarns. You can find a list of shops here.

Meet the Yarn: Gerty

We are so excited to officially announce that Gerty is available! You will find a list of shops that will receive orders in the next few days below so you can be the first to try this amazing new yarn. 

Gerty in Frankie, Paprika, Madam, Orchid, and Violet.

Jill Wolcott joins us this week to introduce all of you to our newest yarny best friend. So without further ado, here's Jill:

Squooshy. That is really the best way to describe Gerty, 100% American Targhee.  Amongst spinners and fleece people, Targhee seems to be the fiber of the moment.  I’ve looked at my reference materials, to learn more about Targhee sheep and fiber.  In addition to softness, the fiber is noted for a 3 to 5 inch length and lands at 22 to 25 microns, with lots of crimp, this fiber takes color well. 

Targhee fiber fluffed and ready to spin!

Targhee is a relatively new breed, developed in 1926 in Idaho, it is a cross-breed of Rambouillet rams and Corriedale and Lincoln/Rambouillet ewes, then back-crossed. The breeding was undertaken to get a sheep that produced both fiber and meat, and was suitable for ranching in the West and high plains.  As breed specific fiber becomes a greater focus among dyers and producers, we are re-discovering things that have been hiding in plain sight.  Hello Targhee!

Noted for soft and fluffy fiber, this merino-like fiber feels silky.  I have enjoyed every stitch I have taken with this yarn.  I want to take more stitches, but I’m nearing the end of my skein. You know the feeling—you are racing to the end, but you don’t want to get there!  Gerty is a fingering/sock yarn and a skein has 390 yards (356m).  My skein color was Birdie.  

Gerty in Birdie.

From my skein I have knitted

  • a long exploration swatch of four stitch patterns, 
  • two yoga anklets (40 sts),
  • one full anklet (40 sts), 
  • a swatch in Pillar & Web, and 
  • a partial swatch in Ringlet stitch.  

I have wet and steam blocked my swatches and have these observations.  Overall, there was little gauge change in my swatches—just a tidying up of stitches and rows.  I used Addi Lace cable needles, US size 3(3.25mm).  I am generally a loose knitter, so you may need to go up a size or two to achieve the same gauge. 

Additional Useful Information:  14 WPI, 3-ply.

Stitches used from left to right; 1x1 rib, seed stitch, stockinette, garter.

After my long swatch I got pretty excited about this yarn so I started working on the yoga sock samples on which I’m working out a new short row heel.  The second one has a bit of shaping up near the toe which is great for those with widening at the ball of the foot.  I got thinking about working a sock with absolutely no toe finishing.  I know you can just kitchener an opening closed, but I don’t love doing that and I am sorely troubled by socks with seams so it was a nice little exploration that I worked on for several evenings. I can tell you that the yarn holds up to ripping and re-knitting quite well.  The result is a very rounded toe that begins from Judy’s Magic cast on, then works short rows for the toe, then the sock, the short row heel, the anklet and rib, and the heel tab.  I added a little rib at the instep because I was kind of bored with stockinette at that point.

I wanted to try a more complex stitch pattern too, so I pulled out a pattern that I did in a vest for Knitter’s magazine in 1998.  Pillar and Web is a fun pattern to work, but it wasn’t right for this springy yarn.  It is fine, just not quite right.  

The stitch pattern needs openness, and this yarn tends to resist that.  So I started working another stitch that I love, but have never done anything with: Ringlet.  Ringlet requires some transferring of stitches, so the springy-ness of Gerty is just right.

Gerty in Pillar and Web stitch

  

Gerty in Pillar and Web Stitch

Gerty in Ringlet stitch

  

Gerty in Ringlet Stitch.

I would suggest that you try Gerty with stitch patterns that need definition, but for which compression isn’t a problem.  Because I cannot keep myself from thinking “what if”, I began to envisioned Gerty in my Meath Pullover.  I would love to substitute the cables with the Ringlet stitch, and maybe add columns of Ringlet to break up the stockinette of the body.  Not quite able to stop dreaming, I checked and determined that the medium would take 4 skeins. I think I would have to do it in Peacock, it's such a beautiful shade of green.

Right now I'll try to savor these last few stitches while I dream of what comes next. 

Gerty is being dyed and shipped throughout September. You'll be able to find Gerty exclusively in the shops listed below, all of whom are happy to ship!

Baskets of Yarn - Charlotte, NC - (704) 733-9053
Wasatch and Wool - Park City, UT - (435) 575-0999
Yarn Refuge - Reno, NV - (775) 384-1600
Knit One Purl Two - Rockford, IL - (815) 904-6030
Harps & Thistles Yarn Emporium - Cuyahoga Falls, OH - (234) 208-9482

Special orders only: Swatches - Fresno, CA - (559) 435-2813

You can place a special order for Gerty (or any of our yarns) at your favorite local shop. See a list of shops here and our map here